I'm Handsome--By Elliot

Today was a fun day. Ten out of the 17-million people in Beijing touched me on my head and said I was a cute boy or that I was adorable. This happened at the Silk Market. I was bargaining for gifts I wanted to buy, like hats, shirts and a dagger for my new sword collection. It was crazy fun. People were pulling on us. They locked my mom and sisters in the back room and frightened my mom. What an adventure! I certainly feel popular here.

My Family

My family arrived yesterday. As you can imagine, it has been great to
have them here. We had Chinese food unlike any they have ever tasted.
Leia had her hair washed without water (ask her about that), Rachel
and I saw people doing Tai Chi (ask her about the tree), and Elliot
ate a bun (we didn't even pay for it). Lisa is just trying to take it
all in (another way of saying she is overwhelmed), just like I was on
my first day.
They have been with our guide, Apple, walking through my favorite part
of Shanghai, the French Concession. I am on the bus heading back from
my final class. I will sure miss my students. We exchanged gifts and a
lot of kind words. When I arrive back in Shanghai, we will meet for
dinner. It is great to have them here.

My Bus

Well, I feel a little like Robert Frost. Instead of two roads
diverged, I had a choice of two bus drivers.
One driver is the one I wrote about a couple of weeks ago. The one who
honked for about 40 minutes. I decided to take the other one, the
driver I didn't know and definitely the less traveled one by the look
of the empty seats.
This driver has used the wrong side of the road a few times, has
passed large trucks by driving on the shoulder, has been thisclose to
running over numerous people AND has been scolded by a female
passenger, which is unheard of.
Yes, I took the bus less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.

Final Day Alone

I am reclining on a stone next to a waterfall. It is 7:30 p.m. local
time. I have found a couple of very relaxing places to sit in
different parks today, my final day here before my family arrives. I
have missed them terribly. It has become much harder as the weeks have
progressed. I'll either sleep really well because they are on their
way, or I won't sleep at all. Any wagers? If I lose, I pay in RMB.

I tried to find a traditional restaurant to take them when they
arrive. The Tang Dynasty restaurant seemed like the place. I looked at
the menu today. What do you think? Will Lisa like the chicken feet?
How about Leia and the duck tongue wrapped with intestines? I'm sure
Rachel will go for the seafood--fish head with bamboo fungus. Elliot,
he'll be tough. Maybe the chicken HEAD soup? The menu was full of
pictures.

I think they will want McDonald's.

Delivered.

New Random Thoughts

Chinese restaurants do not deliver. McDonald’s does.

 -----

 I saw an ambulance the other day. It was in an emergency with its lights and siren on. But then, it came to a traffic signal. Instead of going through the light as it wanted, it had to stop. And wait. The bikes and mopeds wouldn’t move. The police, who were directing traffic, didn’t help. Soon, the ambulance turned off its siren. I noticed a medic working on the person in the back. Since this was a large intersection, it took another minute for the light to change. After the bikes and mopeds were on their way, only then did the ambulance turn on its siren and proceed through the intersection.

 I do not want to have a problem in Shanghai.

 -----

 I love hearing the American music blaring from speakers on bicycles on many street corners. Someone is always selling CDs and DVDs of American entertainment. I am sure they are not legal, but boy, do people buy them!

 -----

 The parks in Shanghai are beautiful, especially People’s Park and the park where the Second Communist Congress gathered. Flowers of every color you can imagine, pathways that are free of trash and manicured lawns abound. 

I wish those responsible cared as much about some of the other areas of the city.

 -----

 Everywhere you look, there is the startling difference between neglected and forgotten buildings and the opulence in the new ones. My three favorite modern buildings look like a rocket, something with a handle and a high-rise that still maintains elements of old Chinese architecture.

 I feel sorry for the forgotten ones.

 -----

 

Holding hands in China is as common as waking up: Men and men; women and women; friends; and, spouses. Now, I walk down the street holding my own hand so I don’t feel lonely.

 ----- 

It can often be difficult to get to the Underground because every station doubles as a mall. It will be very easy to spend money in Shanghai when my family arrives. We may miss every train!

 -----

 The price of bottled water is extremely low. I buy Nestle water. Each bottle costs about 1.60 Yuan, which works out to less than 30-cents. I would think it would be more because there is no alternative, unless of course you include soda, juices and tea.

 -----

 

Most of the dogs I have seen are not on a leash. The interesting thing is that even in the chaos that is everywhere, they are very well behaved.

 ----

 I ate at my first hole-in-the-wall restaurant. The smell was great, although I didn’t know what they were making. Then, the line started to form. One person, then a group of 4, then 2, then a large group, all throwing money at the cook and receiving a bag full of large white dough balls in return. I walked up and was about to ask what was in the ball when the next rush came from behind and threw more money. After a few more seconds, I was able to ask. “Meat” was the answer. Duh! No one in China gets this excited over just vegetables! I bought one. I should have bought 10. It was a large dumpling with meat and a sauce inside. I had to nibble a hole in the dough to avoid being burned. Really, really good. I think I will remember where it is when my family arrives.

 -----

 I am really impressing people with how I can find my way around the city. I have not needed a guide since the first day. Here is what I do: I pick a destination and then I pick a train station far enough away that I know I will get to my destination after about a three-hour walk. It has been the best way to immerse myself in the city. It has taken me off the tourist route and created many opportunities to learn about the culture away from the maps in my pocket. I know life will be different on Monday when my family arrives. I can’t wait for them to get here, and I can’t wait to share with them what I have experienced… all in much less time!

Football Game

Who likes a game where no one wins? Maybe I’m way too competitive (no, that is not a question). Someone always needs to win in my book. What would drive me to compete if I knew there would be times where I would neither win nor lose? When I win, it supports what I needed to do to achieve that accomplishment. When I lose, it shows me what I need to do so that I will win. It’s that simple.

 I saw my first football game last night. What a letdown!

 Well, not quite a letdown. It was actually very exciting. From the time I walked in to find my seat, to seeing and hearing the incredible fans, to not being able to breathe whenever the ball was close to the net, it was one of the best sporting experiences I have had.

 Until the end. A final score of 1-1. I really thought there would be an overtime, sudden death, penalty kicks, ANYTHING to provide closure. Nope.

 Still, the fans and action made it a great time. There was one other inspiring aspect about the match: great sportsmanship. At one moment, someone from the Japan team was injured. He could not get up. The local Shanghai team kicked the ball out of bounds so that the medical team could come onto the field. It was a nice gesture. When the ball was put back in play, I could tell the fans were waiting to see what the Japanese team would do. They were under no obligation to do anything but to try to score in a close game. Instead, they kicked the ball softly toward the Chinese goalie. The crowd cheered. I did, too. 

Sportsmanship is the most important part of sports, but for me, someone needed to win.

 

Spitting in Shanghai

Chinese people will spit just about anywhere. On the street, sure, but also in subway stations (called the Underground), in restaurants (I saw it), and other places when they feel the need to expectorate. On one walk, I felt like I was dodging bullets. Not very welcoming.

 The government understands this is a problem, especially when EXPO 2010 is on the way. The slogan for Shanghai is “Better City. Better Life.” Teaching more responsible social skills is a clear part of their strategy. As a result, there are signs in the Underground that read “No Spitting.” It is not entirely respected. That I can see. It will take time. That’s what I’ve been told. 

The have until next May.

Begging in Shanghai

 I grew up in New York City. I went to school in Los Angeles. I worked in Portland and Tucson. I have seen hundreds of people beg for money: people without limbs; homeless; and, people who want their next fix. Never have I seen what I saw Friday night.

 I was on a train when I noticed a young woman, maybe in her early 20s, walking down the aisle with a Styrofoam cup. She actually looked very well, neither ill nor homeless. She stood in front of each person and simply shook her cup. I should not assume her situation, but it was difficult for me not to because I have seen some people here in China who have very obvious problems.

 Then I heard the rattle of a second cup.

 Maybe three years old. That’s as old as her son could have been. He walked up to the person next to me. He stood there, shaking HIS Styrofoam cup.

 He did not say a word.

 Just like his mother taught him.

 My heart sank.

 Now, I don’t have a problem with people asking for money, but I just can’t accept having a child beg with them. Maybe that is their only way to make a living, but I feel sorry for the lesson it is teaching him.

 My guide told me this happens in China. Many times, she said, beggars really don’t need the money, but it is an easy way to make it.

 No one put money in the mother’s cup.

 His cup was full.

My First International Basketball Experience

I had my first chance to play international basketball. What a difference!

 Some faculty invited me to play with a group that has been playing twice a week for more than 10 years. This group included the president of the university and many senior faculty. I was the youngest player by a few years, but you wouldn’t know it. These guys are in GREAT shape. They tell me it is eating right, understanding their limitations and Tai Chi. I’m sold. 

In American basketball, we play a lot of half-court sets and one-on-one offense and defense. Not in China. I ran full speed for a full two hours. The few times I received the ball in the post area, and held it for more than a second so I could make my move, it was game over, with three or four defenders collapsing on me. A turnover each time. 

So, I had to run. I had to make baskets by getting the rebound and quickly putting the ball back up, or I had to cut and be ready for the amazing passes. When I did receive the ball inside, I had to find the open shooter or the cutter, and I had to do it almost instantaneously.

 We played six on six, which further complicated things. That’s not international basketball; it’s what you have to do when you have 12 people.

 The key is larger at the base in international basketball, not the rectangle that is seen in America. That took some time to get used to. The three-point line is farther from the basket. Those shots did not fall for me. But they did for everyone else.

 I have never played basketball with so many outstanding shooters. Only one person had a good mechanics, but everyone could make shots from just about anywhere. Very few of their baskets were made from the inside.

 I played against another “young” player who was as tall as me with longer arms and a jumping ability that was impressive. Then I saw his gym bag: Chinese National Volleyball Team.  We had a lot of fun.

 We were pretty evenly matched with our team winning two of the five games we played.

 The president, who was on my team, made the last shot to win the final game. Something tells me that happens often. 

They invited me back on Wednesday.

 I’ll be working on my jump shot.

 

Don't Take That Taxi

Each of my guides has warned me about taxis in Shanghai. Most of them are not real. I need to find the ones that have a sign on the top and a license in the window. Only take those, or my safety can’t be guaranteed.

 DON’T TAKE ANY OTHER TAXI.

 Whoops.

 I mentioned in one of my blog posts that the trains stop about 10:30 p.m., depending on the route. Last Thursday night, I found a hotel that had the Internet. Then I went to a late dinner. Then I got on the train to head home.

 It was close to 11.

 I guess I boarded the last train on Line 1. I didn’t know that.

 When I went to transfer to Line 3, which is what I take to my apartment, the entry gate was locked.

 A very slight case of panic set in.

 I have walked around much of this city. Take me to Zhongshan Park, and I am fine. The French Concession? No problem. The Old City, the Bund, Nanjing Road? Been there, done that.

 Not so at the Shanghai Railway Station. And, I forgot my map.

 Maybe more than a slight case of panic.

 I saw a man closing up a ticket window. I walked, or maybe jogged, OK, a full sprint, to the man before he left.

 “I need to get to Chifeng Lu. How do I get there?” 

He looked at me like I was speaking Chinese.

 I wish.

 I tried my best to use what I have learned of the language. “Chifeng Lu.” Yes, that was it.

 He said, “taxi.”

 “I want to walk.” I used two fingers running on my hand. Maybe that would translate.

 He looked at his map. And laughed. Really hard.

 “Too far.”

 So, I went up the steps to the street.

 Every taxi driver in Shanghai knew what I didn’t. That is why they were there waiting for me.

 I’ll give you one guess as to how I was greeted. The 6’4” American guy, carrying a really nice briefcase, a fanny pack that was probably filled with money and looking completely helpless.

 About 50 drivers rushed me.

 I held up my hand and yelled “how much?” Actually, I said it in Chinese, “duoshao qian?”

 Every driver yelled out something. Unfortunately, I don’t know my numbers. That’s when I heard one man say “fifteen.”

 I went with him.

 We walked toward his taxi, passing all the taxis that had the sign on the top and the license in the window.

 His car was a dark blue or black, small four-door sedan. Maybe a small Hyundai.

 No sign on the top.

 No license in the window.

 No way I should have gotten in.

 But, I did.

 I did what I could to increase my chances of survival. I sat in front. I kept my briefcase on my lap and I placed my hands on top of it, ready to defend myself.

 Then, he turned on Chinese music.

 I began to dance.

 And sing.

 There was no way he would try anything with me. I was crazy.

 So he sang, too. At least he knew the words.

 When we arrived at Chifeng Lu, I took out 20 kuai. He looked at me funny. “Fifty,” he said.

 Oh. I had heard wrong. Maybe this is where he robs me?

 I opened the door, placed both feet out and then put the 20 away and took out a 50.

 Next time, I’ll make my train, or at least I will find the sign on top and the license in the window.

 But, it won’t be as much fun.

My Postgraduate Students

This is the group of postgraduate students who are in my class. They are a great group. They do not talk as much as the undergrads. I was told that they have matured to a point where they are not so talkative.

 At the end of the last class, they really opened up. I was teaching them about interviewing. They have not had much formal training in how to talk to people, especially in difficult situations. I told them about the time I interviewed a mother whose son had just killed himself accidentally with his father’s unsecured handgun. I was their age, 24, and in Portland at KOIN-TV. A few said they simply could not have that conversation. We discussed situations where this type of interview might come up in China: the parents of a child killed in an earthquake; an interview with a corrupt local official; people who live in the “slums” who can’t get a job because the government would not educate them when they were young. All of these stories are real, and they need to be told.

 They will need to decide if they will tell them.

 One more note about these students. Here, going to college is a gift, an honor. This generation of Chinese college students is here because their families have sacrificed everything. Many of the students I am teaching have parents who were not allowed to attend college. Their parents were told college was not important. It was a waste of time. The reality was the government did not want too many educated people. It is different now, and these students understand the honor they have of attending college.

 

A Faculty that Sings Together, Teaches Together

Penn State’s president, Graham Spanier, may play the washboard, and some faculty may play in bands on College Ave., but nothing at Penn State can compare to what I saw on the SISU campus last week.

 There is an annual singing competition among the departments here. My faculty asked me if I wanted to listen to a large selection of traditional Chinese songs sung by faculty or staff. I thought it would just add to the cultural experience.

 It was a lot more than that.

 Each faculty team was in an appropriate costume for the song. The English department wore Western clothes and sang the “great” ballad “I’ll be there.” The Public Safety staff wore their uniforms and sang a very strong military song that I could not understand. It was a little intimidating.

 Each faculty had their own fans. Those fans used glow sticks and hand-clappers to support their team. Some fans made signs. Everyone sang along.

 I have never seen such support and relationships between students and faculty.

 I thought I would stay for a few minutes, watch the journalism faculty perform, and then be on my way.

 Three hours later, I was as big a fan as anyone else. 

Our faculty came in third overall, which is their best finish ever. Congratulations!

 My experience came in first

Chinese Sayings

"When you face tough challenges, they are gifts from God to make you stronger."

"You should be grateful to the people who hurt you because you will become wiser and never be hurt by those people again."

I have been told these are sayings believed by generations of Chinese people.

Not much more needs to be said by me.

Read and interpret them as you see fit.

I think that is the true lesson.

My First Massage

I really wanted to make the title to this post "My First Message" because I NEVER would have thought I'd have a massage.

But, man, do I feel good.

A few days ago, I asked a friend here whether there were any places to get a good Chinese massage...

and then quickly added "appropriate massage."

She recommended Dragonfly.

Today, I made an appointment. It was all I could do to show up.

It was a nice place with a lot of water, stones and relaxing music.

The masseuse took me to a room where she gave me clothes that looked like pajamas. I asked her what I needed to take off.

She said, "everything."

I wondered if my friend didn't quite understand what "appropriate massage" meant.

"Even my underwear?"

"What's underwear," she asked.

I pulled my boxers (OK, too much information) slightly from under my shorts.

Yes, I needed to take off my underwear.

"These (pajamas) will cover you."

Good.

I think she could tell I was nervous. Why?

Because it took me about five minutes to change. I had to talk myself into it.

When she came back in, I asked, "what do I do now?" Nervous clue #2.

For the next hour, she poked and slammed and pushed and pinched (yes, pinched--that hurt a little). My head, neck, shoulders, back and legs.

Then she said we were finished.

Before I arrived at Dragonfly, I promised myself I would not try to watch the clock or count the minutes in my head. I was not going to run out immediately when we were finished because I was embarrassed and wanted to get away.

Instead, I asked her for more. I paid for another 30 minutes.

At the front desk, they had shirts that said, "This Can be Addicting."

Yep.

China Earthquake

Yesterday marked one year since the devastating earthquake in the Sichuan province. May 12, 2008, at 2:28 p.m. in China (all of China is on Beijing time).

In the middle of my class, one of my students asked if I could stop teaching for a moment of silence. The entire country was supposed to remember the earthquake for one minute, at exactly 2:28 p.m.

We all stood. She said something eloquent, and then we all remembered.

Of course, it meant something different for me. In that moment, I was there to support them, but I didn't know anyone from Sichuan. Some of the students did.

I was brought back to September 11, 2002, when there was a moment of silence in the U.S. at 9:03 a.m. Although the Sichuan earthquake was not a terrorist attack, the impact it had on the country was similar.

It was an honor to participate in this very moving moment.

My Apartment

I am very grateful for the apartment the university has let me use during my time here. It is the largest apartment in the building, but it is very empty right now. I can't wait until the apartment is a little busier with my family. I miss them, and I am looking forward to experiencing their reactions to Shanghai.

Dream Job

Many people who know me well know my dream job.

No, not to run an NBA franchise.

Not to be president.

Not even to be on the faculty at Penn State (although I REALLY like that job).

I want to drive a bus.

I now want to drive a bus in Shanghai.

Twice a week, I board a bus that takes me on a one-hour trip to the suburban campus where I teach. Twice a week, I am envious of the bus driver (twice a week I am also most fearful for my life, but more on that later).

He IS the most powerful person in the world.

Bus drivers do not stop for anything. Bus drivers hardly look at the traffic light. As we are leaving campus, he honks his horn to tell everyone that he is coming. I can't tell you how many students and faculty get thisclose to being hit, and those who actually do get brushed because they did not move out of the way fast enough. Since I am teaching at an international university, there are, of course, many international students. They just don't get it. The Chinese understand the situation. They move to the side faster. The international kids just freak out.

Once we are on the freeway, watch out. The first day, I sat in the back of the bus. STUPID. I didn't exactly throw up, but... Now I get to the bus early. I sit in the front, which I have discovered is where everyone else wants to sit. At least now I can see what is about to kill me.

OK, back to the freeway. The freeways are typically two lanes, unless of course, you count the emergency lanes on the left and right. So, they are really four lanes. The bus driver uses all of them.

I can't stand people who honk their horn for no reason. When the bus driver does it, it's really cool.

Forty minutes. That's how long the bus driver honked his horn yesterday. I counted.

It's only a one-hour trip.

He drove up to 120 KMH. Everyone else was driving about 80. That's why he honked.

Think about it. Here is a guy, driving a bus four times the size of any of the cars, 50% faster than anyone else, causing more near accidents than you can imagine, and honking his horn for forty minutes with one hand.

And eating a cucumber in the other.

That is where I became a real fan. My knuckles were as white as a skeleton, and yet I was in awe.

Yes, I want to drive a bus.

But, I will eat a carrot.

Sports in China (at least in Shanghai)

I think the entire country stopped breathing for a moment when Yao Ming hurt his foot against the Lakers. It didn't take too long for them to lose interest in the NBA after that.

That's OK because there a many sports more entertaining than basketball.

I can't believe I just said that.

Try badminton. I always thought badminton was a game you played after everyone was drunk at a family reunion. You know, those reunions where you want every excuse to smash the birdie at cousin Joe, who always made fun of you when you were a kid.

I watched badminton on CCTV 5 for two hours this morning. It was the longest I have watched TV at one time since I arrived. I couldn't stop! First was a doubles match. I could hardly see the birdie! The athleticism was as good as I have seen. I have no idea how fast the birdie was going, but it made tennis look like chess.

I can't wait to show off my new moves at the summer BBQ.

But wait, badminton isn't even the most entertaining sport in China.

That would be ping-pong.

Seriously, is every sport in China played at 1,000 miles per hour? I would love, for even a moment, to try to play with ANYONE in China. Even at the university, the students play in between classes. Even THEY would beat me. With one hand. And their eyes closed.

I bought a ticket to my first football game. We call it soccer, of course. China will play Japan. The match is next week so I have time to brush up on my Chinese cheers and my yelling and screaming. I was told the fans are not quite as crazy as Europeans, but that it could be the most chaotic experience of my life. I'm ready.

And if China wins... Lisa, the life insurance is in the safe.

I would mention Cricket here, but I can't because I have no idea what is happening in that sport.

I can't really stress the importance of sports in China. Every commercial that is not about Lebron James or Kobe Bryant is about how kids in China are practicing to be great at various sports. The kids are shown in large "camps" working on different skills. As the video airs, the date of the Olympics that the child is "preparing" for appears on screen. 2012. 2016. Even 2020. It is impressive.

Even More Food

I have included a few pictures of some of the things that are keeping me alive in Shanghai. The blood orange juice is the best ever. The Dannon yogurt is fine. I'll give you one guess which soup tastes better. Actually, the fresh soup you see is AMAZING! I have never had a broth that I would drink by itself. This was one. The small fruits are great as well. I can't remember the name. If someone recognizes them, please comment on this post. The seeds are bigger than the meat of the fruit, but it is so sweet. Just peel the skin and eat. This is the season so I know my family will love them, too.

I still won't eat organs.

More Random Thoughts

I needed to use the bathroom yesterday. Not to sound too personal, but it was more than a quick moment. I found a restroom in one of the buildings at the university. Based on the picture above, can you just imagine the look on my face when I walked in? I wouldn't even know how to use whatever that was. At the least, I think I could figure out which direction I should sit. It gives a whole new meaning to sitting down.

So, I waited until I boarded the bus that takes me to the suburban campus. Once I arrived, I found a new bathroom. Great. It had a traditional toilet.

No toilet paper.

It seems as though you need to bring your own at this campus when it is a public restroom. It was a long day.

---

Naps are very important to the Chinese. When I say important, I mean REALLY important. There is a guy selling goods at a store I pass EVERYDAY. I have yet to see him awake.

My guide and I saw a man sleeping on his bicycle. Standing up. In traffic.

I saw a man leaning against a wall. In a subway station. He was wearing a nice suit. Snoring.

I hate to say it's a guy thing, but I have not seen a woman nap. Except in my classes.

---

I have had more tea in the past nine days than I ever have in my life. It is sold everywhere. If there is a flavor you could imagine, hot or cold, it has been created. My favorite tea from the store is Peach Ice Tea. My favorite fresh tea is Xihu Longjing Tea. It is almost entirely clear and has a very delicate flavor. I am having some right now.

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Cartoons are HUGE here. I don't mean like high-level cartoons or animation like Pixar or Dreamworks. I mean the most basic cartoons where nothing looks real. Actually, I think the more cartoonish something looks, the better. I was watching the news yesterday (yes, I watch a lot of news in Chinese--thank goodness for pictures), and we were expecting storms. During the weather report, there was a video explaining how to be safe in an electrical storm. As you can guess, it was a cartoon. The little boy (maybe it is a man--can't tell) is walking in the woods (there are very few woods in Shanghai--many parks, but few woods) when lightning hits him. SPLAT! He didn't heed the warnings. I'm not sure I was supposed to laugh. It was funny.

---

The first case of Swine Flu has hit the mainland. I know it is not called Swine Flu anymore, but that is what they say in China. And since it has not done a thing to stop people from eating pigs, it doesn't matter. Nothing has changed as far as I can tell.

---

The traffic signals in Shanghai are very helpful, more helpful than in the U.S. Not only do they have the typical red, yellow and green, some of the intersections have digital countdown clocks for the vehicles. Before the light turns yellow, the green begins to blink. I like it.

---

Two quick bits that show how considerate the Chinese are for each other: 1. All buildings under construction are wrapped in green cloth to keep dust from getting out; 2. The trains that go above ground stop relatively early, maybe about 10:30 or 11:00 p.m. This is to allow people to sleep.

---

Speaking of construction, there are so many people here that any construction job finishes almost overnight. That is only a slight exaggeration. On my street, there must be 30 workers rebuilding the road. 24 hours a day, seven days a week, they are working. The progress is impressive.

It doesn't just happen on street and building construction. A store right next to my apartment was gutted and completely rebuilt (from the electrical to drywall to finishing) over the span of two days. The entire extended family, as I could tell, was helping. It was clear the store was the source of income for the family. In two days, they were selling again.

---

Everything I am experiencing, and therefore, everything in this blog, is told from a Shanghai perspective. I am looking forward to seeing other parts of the country to learn everything new.

I need to go now. It's time for my nap.

Mornings in Shanghai

How can it be that in a place with so much chaos, I can find so much peace?

This morning, I traveled to Zhongshan Park where I thought I would find a few people performing Tai Chi. Well, there were HUNDREDS of people in the park, maybe a thousand… moving so delicately with swords, line dancing, ballroom dancing, flying kites, meditating and playing with some red spinning toy I can’t explain. I found myself just sitting there and watching. The peace that came over me is something that words cannot adequately explain.

Most of the people here live in the terribly dilapidated houses. If they are fortunate enough to live in something better, they still want to be outside. So they spend most of their time in the park. There are thousands of people doing this, maybe hundreds of thousands in the parks throughout the city.

I noticed that the overwhelming majority were older than 40, maybe even 50. It is a generation that is far removed from the "new" Chinese--intellectually, politically and socially--the people for whom college is an option but yet still an honor (not an "entitlement" as I find the thinking in the U.S.), the night life is paramount and American influences are not only welcomed but encouraged.

The mornings in China are for the older generation, those who take great pride in centering their souls and understanding their place in society.

The evenings in China are for the new generation, those who have dreams beyond their parents and are blazing a trail for their new society.

What an exciting time to be Chinese. What an exciting time to be invited here.

One day soon, China will be lead by this new generation. This country may have been in existence for thousands of years, but its rebirth has only happened in the last 40.

I am not in any position to give advice beyond what I am teaching in the classroom, but I hope that the new Chinese do not sleep through the mornings. The evenings are where the new Chinese will create the new China, but it is in the mornings where they will remember how they got there.

There is much to learn from the older generation.

Like Tai Chi. Like line dancing.

And finding yourself.

I came to Shanghai wanting to experience a new culture, a culture as foreign to me as I could imagine. I will leave here learning far more than I have been able to teach.

The Subway System

The subway system is the most efficient I have seen.

First, you purchase a travel card that works for the subway, train, bus and taxis. You can pay for everything without ever having to get cash, except of course, if you are trying to buy one of those awesome Portuguese Custard danishes. Shoot, there goes the diet.

All the signs are listed in both Chinese and English, and each train is color coded. I have been taking them for the past three days by myself and have not been lost.

I thought the neatest thing was the guard on each side of the train tracks who raises a flag and blows a whistle whenever the train is arriving or ready to depart. What a nice touch.

That is until I found out why they are there.

A few years ago, a man was caught in between the doors of the train and the doors that protect the riders from the train. It was a horrific accident. The people with the flags were put in place almost immediately.

Even getting on and off the train has a system. You can see in the picture above that there is protocol for everything. Those waiting to board the train are instructed to make two lines and stand to the sides of the door. The people coming off the train come through the middle. Try that one in New York!

Making Dumplings

OK. I did eat these.

A lot of them.

More Food

Can you guess what I have eaten and what I haven't?

Hint: I haven't tried any of it.

Art of Negotiation

Everything is negotiable. That’s what I’ve been told. Do not pay full price for anything in a tourist location. Start very low and only move up slightly. OK, that couldn’t be too hard, right?

Wrong.

My mother asked me to find her a small box to add to her collection. I was at the Yu Gardens and found a small box that I thought would work. The price? 280 Kuai.

I thought I would offer 50.

You should have seen her face. The battle was on.

“This is real leather. Worth much more than 50 Kuai.”

“No, that is what I want to spend.”

“But look at this. It has a real clasp.” As opposed to unreal?

“OK, 180 Kuai,” she said. I was winning, but I hadn’t won.

“No. This is a beautiful box, but I will find a different box for a lot less money.” It might not be real leather or have a real clasp, but it would be cheap. Sorry, mom.

I began to walk out. She walked after me.

“OK. OK. 100 Kuai, but no less. It is almost what it cost us.”

Wow, walking out was a good move. “50 Kuai,” I answered.

By now she knew she was competing with a pro. What I didn’t expect was what she did next.

She moved in front of me and put her hands on my chest to push me back in the store.

“You are so strong. Your muscles are big.”

I almost paid the full 280.

“OK, 75.” Damn.

“90.”

“75.”

Her hands were still on my chest.

“What is the most you will spend?”

“75.”

“Fine. 80,” she said.

THAT was smooth. I almost bit.

I found myself slipping, but I regained my strength as little voices popped in my head.

“Sorry, I am leaving.” I took her hands off my chest.

“OK, 75. You are really good.”

I won.

Not quite.

As I went to the counter, I pulled a 100 out of my wallet. I sensed the negotiation was not over.

“I want the 25 in my hand before I give you the 100.”

The woman handed me 20. She kept the other five on the counter. Under her elbow.

Round 2.

By now, I had the momentum and the confidence. I took the box, still had my 100 Kuai AND I had her 20. I could have run.

She said “80.”

I began to count to three. Thanks, mom. I never thought that would work outside of scolding my kids.

“1, 2…” She gave me the 5. I gave her the 100.

My mother has her box. She had better like it.

Great Storytelling is Universal

I was sitting on the Bund looking both behind me at the row of banks that line the street and then across the river at Pudong. On the Bund side, the banks are more than 100 years old. The architecture is not unlike seeing Central Park South in New York. On the other side are the tall financial buildings in Pudong. The Huangpu River literally separated the old money from the new. It is a powerful dichotomy.

A man with a small megaphone walked in front of me when a Chinese woman gave him a few RMB. He stopped, looked at me, and said what I am sure is the only English word he knew, "sorry." I didn't quite know what to expect. He began to speak. In Chinese.

As he spoke, he began using grand gestures. He kept pointing to the Pudong side and then the Bund side. The crowd increased. Soon, I was the only American, or foreigner for that matter, among a group of maybe 30 Chinese. With every gesture, the crowd reacted. With every sentence, the crowd laughed, or sighed, or was silent.

Someone next to me asked, in broken English, "do you understand any of this?" I said "no." They asked why I didn't get up and move. I asked, "what is he saying?"

"He is telling a story about the meaning of the buildings."

I said, "that is why I am not leaving."

I tell my students that great storytelling will always be more effective than good reporting because it incorporates solid journalistic skills with a deeper level of writing and presentation. Great storytelling can break through any barrier.

Great storytelling is universal. It grabs at the one thing that ALL HUMANS share--the ability to have emotions. I could FEEL his gestures, even if I could not understand one word.

That was all I needed.

Random Thoughts

As I am writing this, an America guy came up to me and asked if I was a Nittany Lion. Seriously. It turns out that his parents taught at Penn State. His mom worked in the College of Communications. In a city with 20-million people, I find the one guy who knows the logo on my hat.

He said he went to Penn State for one year "to have his fun." Doesn't everybody?

I did not have my malaria shot.

I killed a mosquito today in my apartment. That sucked.

There aren't many things I don't like about Shanghai. Smoking is definitely one of them. So many people smoke. I heard the other day that there is more tobacco consumed in China than anywhere else is the world. I don't doubt that.

I had a good laugh the other day. Someone was talking to their dog... in Chinese. It's not like I expected them to speak English, I just didn't know dogs could speak Chinese.

Water is SO important here. They say it brings good fortune. There are fountains, canals, rivers, water art. The only problem is that all the water is brown and full of garbage. And, you can't drink it. What kind of fortune is that?

I still can't believe the uses for bamboo. I asked someone if there is enough bamboo for the Pandas? They laughed and told me that Pandas don't like dead bamboo. Dumb question.

It has been recommended to me that I turn off lights when I walk out of a room and turn off the water heater when I am not using it. The Chinese want to save electricity. Are you kidding me? Have you seen the lights downtown (I have included video)? It makes Las Vegas look like Tucson (where you can't have lights disrupt the stargazers).

People here are so nice, even when they are not. They are abrupt, dislike happy-talk or anything unimportant. Still, if you need something, they will do anything they can to help.

Everyone is getting prepared for EXPO 2010. It will be an opportunity for China to show off a new Shanghai. The construction is endless. The government has asked people to be "nice." It's amazing when the government has to ask people to be "nice." As I said in the previous entry, I haven't had that problem. Haibo, the little blue character is the face of EXPO 2010. Very cute.

New York might be the "City the Never Sleeps," but Shanghai is the "City that Never Sits." A local person told me that yesterday.

There are street sweepers in Shanghai... individual workers who use straw brooms to clean the streets. It is a job the government has protected to allow more people to work.

I had Nepalese food for lunch yesterday; Thai food for dinner. So different than home. My brother has told me the Thai Iced Tea in the U.S. is terrible. I laughed at him. I'm not laughing now. It is AWESOME!

There is a military jet that flies very low over my apartment and the rest of downtown every afternoon. I have asked a lot of Chinese about it. They don't even notice it. Well, the American guy notices it.

Teaching in China

I taught my first class yesterday. There were about 30 students in their second year of college. Any concern I had about the language barrier was gone once I asked them to write their names on a nametag with one word that best describes them. Almost everyone had chosen an English name. The words they chose to describe themselves were very deep for some. One student explained to me why “imperfection” best described her. She reasoned that imperfection always reminded her that it was her quest for perfection that drove her each day, and that she knew she always failed to reach her goal. Another student wrote “eccentric,” not because she like unique things, but that she, and many others in her generation in China, think differently than their older relatives. She has dreams that the older generation could never imagine. They call her strange. I call her inspiring.

Each class has a monitor. This is a student responsible for sweeping the floor and cleaning the blackboard to make the room ready for the professor. The monitor also writes down the name of each person and where they are sitting so that the professor can work more efficiently. I could get used to this at home. Can you just imagine me asking a student at Penn State to vacuum the carpet in the classroom before I begin class? OK, maybe you CAN imagine that, but can you imagine what the reaction would be?

The students are FASCINATED with American television and everything else American. They love our style, are envious of our way of life, and like many Americans, they are infatuated with President Obama. Even they say that Obama can really present himself well on television, but that China is waiting to see if his leadership matches his personality. They said they hope so. I asked, “why?”

“Because the American people deserve it.”

Living in Shanghai

I expected to see a different way of life, but I never imagined this. There are high-rise apartment buildings absolutely everywhere. No one lives in a house near downtown. The houses are reserved for the farmers outside of the city. There is a stark difference between the newly constructed buildings and buildings that are so dilapidated they would be condemned in America, but here, they are filled. There are buildings without windows, buildings without walls. Pretty much no one has a clothes dryer so there are bamboo or metal bars protruding far from each apartment with clothes hanging from them, in some instances 40 stories above the ground!

The use of bamboo was a complete shock. Bamboo is used as scaffolding around buildings. I saw numerous people standing on bamboo 100 feet above the ground. I was told bamboo is a very strong product. I was thinking how it would NEVER make code at home!

Every piece of land that does not have a building on it is being cultivated by the citizens. There are gardens everywhere. It was a tremendous site to see beautiful gardens next to the most depressing housing. People here care about the land in ways I never thought possible. It sustains them with both food and money as the streets turn into fresh food markets at night all in an attempt to avoid the taxes they would have to pay if they sold their goods during the day.

Chinese people hate the sun. Well, not quite. It is probably more appropriate to say they avoid being in the sun. I was walking on Nanjing Road today, a well-known shopping area in downtown. Ninety percent of the people were walking single file in the 20 feet of shade that was on the south side of the road. I asked my guide, Apple, why that was the case? She said women are viewed in higher regard the whiter they are. When the sun burns or tans someone, it takes away the beauty women have. It helped explain why I saw more umbrellas in the sun today than I see in the rain at home.

Chinese people love the water. That is true. In fact, many developers have built complete rivers next to their developments. The water brings good fortune to the Chinese people.

Chinese Food

The food is delicious. I was told that Chinese food in America is a bastardization of real Chinese food. It is true. The food is so rich and the flavors are so unique. From the sweet breads to the dumplings to the beef dishes and even the octopus, everything I have eaten has been exceptional.

Except for the food I have not eaten.

There are just some things I will not eat. Organs. I will not eat them. Chicken blood. Nope.

Here, you need to ask about EVERY ingredient in your food. Then, ask again.

I can’t drink the water. I will get poisoned, they say. I can’t eat local fruit or vegetables with the skin unless I wash them with water. The poisoned water. So, now I need to wash everything in salt water.

The salt kills the poison (bacteria) in the water. The water washes the poison off the food.

I really like bananas.

Driving in Shanghai

Are you kidding me? I have joked about driving in New York or Los Angeles, but nothing, nothing can compare to driving in Shanghai!

Traffic lights are only recommendations here. Even when walking on the sidewalk, you need to watch out for bicycles and mopeds and motorcycles. ON THE SIDEWALK! One intersection has EIGHT ways to travel! I have only seen one accident, and I was told that was because China has very skilled drivers. I guess you could say that. I mean, they would shut down an American city if people drove like this.

Let me give you an example. On the way home from the airport, my driver was in the far left lane of a three-lane highway. The exit was on the far right. He almost missed it.

Almost.

From 100 KMH to 0 in about three seconds flat, he stopped, and I mean stopped, in the fast lane. A complete stop. Not rolling. Stopped.

The cars behind us were traveling at least 80 to 100 KMH. They didn't stop.

As you can imagine, horns honked everywhere. I turned around to see trucks darting around us. I yelled, yes, I yelled, "GO, GO, GO!" The driver laughed.

He backed up slightly while cars were still trying to avoid us.

Then, he turned. 90 degrees to the right.

And went across two lanes to the exit. I have never truly thought my life would end. Until that moment.

The driver never blinked.

"Welcome to China," I said to myself.

Arriving in Shanghai

I had heard rumors that all passengers would have to pass a physical when we arrived in Shanghai. The Chinese government is trying anything it can to prevent the Swine Flu from doing to the population what SARS did a few years ago. No one has a problem with that.

Still, when we were told to not get out of our seats when the plane arrived, we were perplexed. Then it happened. Four health officials dressed in those same suits that the people wore in the movie E.T. boarded the plane. They proceeded to tell us they needed to take everyone's temperature. If anyone had a temperature of over 100.4, we ALL would be quarantined for the next 5-7 days to see if anyone had other symptoms. Although I am sure we all felt healthy, you can just imagine how uneasy we all felt. I saw a couple people begin to sweat, which is exactly what NOT TO DO.

They took our temperature by making us close our eyes as they shone a laser at our foreheads. OK, that was really freaky. There were about 300 people on the plane so it took an extra 30 minutes. Finally, they said we were clear to deplane. What a relief!

EVERYONE at the airport wore a mask. I have never felt a level of concern like this from a group of people. We had to go through another medical check where we had to fill out a form about any symptoms we might be feeling. Once we were through there, it was on to customs and then to find my guide Zao.

On the Plane

First, can I just say that having a personal entertainment center in my seat is the neatest invention since the Internet?!?! I was able to watch the entire Bourne Identity trilogy. Same premise for each movie but all were very entertaining. I never would have thought I could sleep almost a full six hours AND watch three movies AND eat three meals AND exercise on the SAME FLIGHT! Yes, it was long, but there were some incredible sights. I have included a video of us going over Greenland. No, no green in Greenland, but I saw a beautiful frozen river. Another highlight was flying over Mongolia. My mind was filled with visions of what it was like centuries ago. I have included a video of Mongolia as well.

In Shanghai

I was not able to update the blog for the first couple days because I have found out the Internet is hard to find in Shanghai. My guide, Apple (one of the students at SISU), was able to find a cafe near campus and what is called my home. I was just able to have a Skype conversation with most of my family. How neat is that!

This will start a series of posts about my experience in China, and what an experience it has been!

At the Airport

I am waiting for my plane at Newark airport. It is really beginning to feel like I am going somewhere... Typically, I fly to places like Las Vegas, Phoenix, maybe Chicago. This time, when I get off the plane, it will be a totally different experience. I can't wait. Well, maybe I can wait another 16 hours! I don't really have a choice ;-)

Planning the trip

Well, after six months of planning our trip to China, and only six days to go before I leave, it is difficult to think that the Swine Flu could jeopardize the trip. We will find out this week just how bad this is going to get. China announced today that they are getting a little tougher against people traveling into China. We'll see.

Our plan is for me to teach broadcast journalism at Shanghai International Studies University for four weeks. Lisa and our kids will join me for a tour of Shanghai, Xian, and Beijing. We are so fortunate to have this opportunity.